In a village in Same District, Kilimanjaro region, the night was alive with noise—roars, scurrying sounds, screams and grunts, most shrouded in mystery. I recognised the calls of nightjars, the Spotted Thick-knee, two owls constantly calling to each other, and the very loud cries of hyenas announcing their presence. They called almost throughout the night, only to be interrupted by the distant roar of a lion.
As the new day dawned, the beauty of the landscape overwhelmed my senses. Stepping out of my tent, I noticed the damp ground revealed tracks of snakes, hyenas, and other nocturnal creatures that ruled the night. Birds were everywhere, actively seeking food. Group after group of birds flew in the same direction—undoubtedly migratory birds. Normally, birds migrate at night and use the stars to navigate ancient flyways. It was a special treat to witness such moments in this tranquil bush, and I was fortunate enough to cross their migratory path.
After breakfast, which consisted of tea served with boiled eggs, sweet potatoes, and fresh fruit, I shifted my focus to birdwatching.
Nearby, on the branch of a small tree, a chameleon had camouflaged itself as a leaf; from a foot away, it was invisible. In the wetlands, a male Grosbeak Weaver or Thick-billed Weaver, a large dark weaver with a thick bill, was meticulously constructing his nest. It features a white dash on the forehead and wing. This species always breeds over water, and it was amazing to see how a bird with such a large beak could build a delicate globe-shaped nest woven with thin strips of reeds.
Overlooking the Pare Mountains, the area is a hotspot for botanical diversity and a magnet for feathered wonders, home to a stunning array of birdlife. I spotted a beautiful Golden-breasted Starling (Cosmopsarus regius), Eastern Paradise Whydah, Somali Bunting, and many others. With the sun low on the horizon, I managed to capture a silhouette photograph of a Hamerkop on top of a tree, in a graceful pose typical of mating displays.
As darkness fell, nocturnal mammals took centre stage. Bats swooped around, picking off insects in the air, while Bushbabies announced their presence by calling to each other, though glimpses of them were rare. Bushbabies spend their days asleep in thick stands of bamboos, used by locals to make a traditional alcoholic beverage called “Ulanzi” in Swahili.
These small animals enjoy drinking it and even get drunk. Ulanzi brew is very popular in the Iringa, Njombe, Mbeya and Ruvuma Regions. Don’t miss “nyamtuto” at Chilowe Lodge in Njombe, where you’ll be lucky to be hosted by the great Danford Mpumilwa.
Raphael Mbunda, Leganga Lodge at Usa River. Birding is his hobby.
📧 He can be reached at:
✉️ Email: mbundarb11@gmail.com
📞 Phone: +255756606070
